Continuing to look at the traditions of his homeland through a new lens, Yoshio Kubo investigated “yugen” – the Japanese understanding of mysterious inner beauty. This meant intense attention to detail, reflecting the meticulous sensibility inherent in his culture, the designer said in a Zoom preview.
This was translated in references to the kimono that went from quite literal, as in a diamond quilted jacket in traditional indigo, to more abstract; for example, on the necklines and detailing of the sportier pieces in the collection, or the diagonal fastening that added interest to a beige duffel coat.
Bright orange and utilitarian neutrals were spliced and layered with heritage fabrics like a dyed motif in vivid purple or a jacquard with a floral pattern to create the streetwear silhouettes in the collection.
Yoshio Kubo Men's Fall 2021
The digital medium meant that Kubo could showcase the details of his designs close up, unlike with a fashion show, he said. He filmed his models walking through a furniture factory, the masked workers at their lathes in the background, interspersing these images with the painstaking work of a botanical designer perfecting an installation.
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